In the middle of the year, we made an impulsive decision to book a river cruise to see the Christmas Markets in Europe. Since these cruises fill up quickly, we were fortunate enough to secure the last cabin for a trip at the end of December with Viking Cruises.
December 14-15: Time in Amsterdam
As usual, we arrived in Amsterdam a few days before our cruise and took some time to explore the city.
We got a taxi to our hotel, who, thankfully allowed us to have our room early. We spent all day napping, not eating until dinner which was in the hotel. We tried the vegetarian version of bitterballen, a pub staple here in Amsterdam. It didn’t really catch on with us.
That night we slept from 9pm to 8am with about a 3 hr break in the middle of the night. Ah, jet lag. Once up, though we were ready to explore.
We took an Uber to the Rijksmuseum. After walking around a bit, something about the lighting there made me feel “carsick”. Even Alan could tell there was something “off” about it. But we were troupers and visited several floors, especially the Old Masters’ works, particularly Rembrandt’s The Night Watch and Syndics of the Four Drapers’ Guild on the 2nd floor. At the souvenir shop we bought a pin.
After leaving the museum, we crossed the street to a small Christmas market and skating rink. We indulged in some delicious street food and sodas there, and I bought a lovely sketchbook, and then enjoyed the sights as we strolled out towards the Van Gogh museum, then turned and headed back towards our hotel, taking in the festive atmosphere of the city.
December 16: Setting Sail
Today, we embarked on our journey aboard the elegant Viking Idun, our home for the next week. But before we left for the ship, we walked to an art store to get some pencils, a sharpener, and an eraser; maybe it was the visit to the museum, but I wanted to start sketching again. Our stateroom was incredibly comfortable, and we set sail up the Rhine just before dinner, which was a delightful culinary experience.
December 17: History in Dordrecht, The Netherlands
Still in the Netherlands, we got to explore Dordrecht, the country’s oldest city, and it was such a cool experience. Dating back to 1220, this place is steeped in history—trade, politics, religion, you name it. We kicked off with a walking tour through its historic neighborhoods, which felt like stepping into a time machine.
We wandered past charming old warehouses and grand mansions that totally screamed “we used to be super important.” The Groothoofdspoort, this massive old city gate where three rivers meet, was a standout—it felt like the grand entrance to Dordrecht’s past. We also checked out Het Hof, a medieval monastery turned museum, and geeked out over the Gothic Grote Kerk with its intricate design and famously unfinished tower (apparently, they ran out of steam centuries ago). The Augustijnenkerk and the Stadhuis (City Hall) were equally impressive, each with their own stories to tell.
After the tour, we just hung out, soaking up the vibe of the city. Wandering its cobblestone streets at our own pace was the perfect way to wrap up the day before heading back to the ship. Dordrecht is one of those places where history feels alive, and we loved every minute of it.
December 18: The Pure Magic of Cologne, Germany
Our visit to Cologne during the holiday season was nothing short of magical. We started in the historic city center, where we wandered through Cologne’s largest Christmas market. The air was filled with festive aromas—roasted chestnuts, spiced glühwein, and a hint of cinnamon everywhere. Our guide shared the local holiday traditions as we browsed colorful stalls, each offering unique handcrafted gifts and holiday treats.
One of the highlights was sampling Spekulatius, a spiced cookie that’s a holiday favorite in Germany. The combination of its sweet, warming flavor with the lively market atmosphere was unforgettable.
After exploring the market, we strolled through the Old Town, soaking in the twinkling lights and festive decorations. Standing in front of the towering Cologne Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was a moment to remember. Its Gothic architecture is breathtaking, and even the intricate exterior details seemed to sparkle in the holiday glow.
The Christmas market and Old Town were a perfect blend of festive cheer and cultural wonder, making our time in Cologne an unforgettable holiday experience.
December 19: A Festive Stroll Through Koblenz
Our visit to Koblenz during the holiday season was a delight. We began at Deutsches Eck (German Corner), where the impressive equestrian statue of Emperor Wilhelm I stands proudly. From there, we saw some sculptures, and portions of the Berlin Wall. We wandered the narrow streets of the Old Town, soaking up the festive atmosphere and admiring the historic Koblenz City Hall, a former school building from 1895.
The Christmas market, spread across six locations from Münzplatz to Zentralplatz, was the highlight. The air was filled with the tempting aromas of glühwein and roasted almonds, and we couldn’t resist indulging in a sweet holiday treat from one of the cheerful stalls.
It was a perfect way to experience the charm of Koblenz during the festive season before heading back to our ship.
As the day began to wane, we were treated to views of about a dozen castles and picturesque little towns along the Rhine.
To finish up our day, we stopped in Rudesheim for some more markets, and a traditional German dinner at a the Weinhaus Drosselhof. This is one of the oldest inns/restaurants in Rudesheim. We enjoyed spirits, music, singing and some dancing too.
December 20: A Day in Mannheim
Our visit to Mannheim during the Christmas season was a wonderful mix of history and holiday cheer. Known as the “Chessboard City” for its unique grid layout, Mannheim offered plenty to explore. We began with a walk to the Wasserturm (Water Tower), one of the city’s iconic landmarks, and visited the historic St. Sebastian Church, the oldest building in town. We were even lucky enough to hear the charming glockenspiel from the tower.
The Christmas market was a highlight, with its colorful stalls filled with unique gifts and festive scents of glühwein and roasted treats. We took our time soaking in the yuletide atmosphere before heading back to our ship with plenty of holiday memories and souvenirs.
December 21: Exploring the Blend of Cultures in Strasbourg
Our visit to Strasbourg was a beautiful mix of German and French influences. We started with a drive through the German Imperial District and the European Quarter, passing landmarks like the European Union headquarters and stunning Renaissance architecture. There were several markets to see, so we took it all in. The streets were decked with lights and storefront Christmas decorations.
In the heart of the city, we strolled through Petite France, the picturesque former Tanners’ District surrounded by the Ill River and charming canals. The Old Customs House and the defensive tower bridges were highlights of this storybook setting.
At Cathedral Square, we admired the magnificent Strasbourg Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece with a stunning rosette window, intricate sandstone portal, and the fascinating astronomical clock.
As we started on our way back to bus stop, we encountered several delightful mobs of Santas on mopeds.
Back on the ship, we had some fun with gingerbread cookie decorating. Only eight cookies were available, so when only six people had volunteered to ice a cookie, I stepped up and finally an eighth joined in. It was great fun.
For dinner, traditional German fare was set up on a buffet. Our cruise director dressed up in lederhosen, and danced with a few willing ladies.
Strasbourg was definitely our favorite stop of the trip!
December 22: Christmas Magic in Freiburg
Our time in Freiburg was a perfect blend of history, culture, and holiday spirit. Nestled at the edge of the Black Forest, the city welcomed us with its medieval charm. We began with a scenic drive before strolling through the historic center with our guide, learning about Freiburg’s past and its cherished Christmas traditions.
In the square, across from the church, I noticed some brass “stones” with markings on them, set between the cobblestones. We were told that these were very old, and they marked the limit to which the bars and restaurants could set up their outdoor seating and serve spirits to customers.
Along our walk we were cautioned a few times to watch out for the small gutters (ankle busters). These were where, back in the day, people would cast their waste water. Ew.
What I found intriguing, were all the small stone mosaics in the streets.
A highlight was the Freiburg Münster, the stunning Gothic cathedral adorned with over 90 unique gargoyles. We took a moment to admire the intricate details and the figures surrounding this 13th-century masterpiece, and were lucky enough to be there when the bells sounded.
The Christmas market in the main square was a small, and since is was Sunday, would not open for several hours. We capped off our visit with an enchanting organ recital before returning to our ship, carrying the magic of Freiburg with us.
December 23: End of our Journey
Very early this morning we arrived in Basel, Switzerland. Our flight was scheduled for 7:00AM, so we had to be up and out by 4:30. Along with a few other fellow cruisers, we climbed into a van and were taken to the airport a few minutes away in… Basel, France.
While waiting for our flight in the holiday-decorated airport, we got to see some snow falling. It was a pretty sight to end our trip with.