It rained all day. Not a gentle mist. Not a passing shower. Full-on, committed, soak-you-to-the-core rain. By the end of the day, we weren’t just damp – we were thoroughly, impressively drenched.
Our half-day tour was meant to highlight the best of the Seogwipo area, and to be fair, it probably would have – had we been able to see most of it through the sheets of water.
Our first stop was Yakcheonsa Temple, reputedly the largest Buddhist temple in Asia. Despite the rain, it was stunning. Built in the style of the early Joseon Dynasty, it feels grand the moment you step inside. The massive Vairocana Buddha sits proudly on its pedestal, surrounded by intricate details—golden dragons, oversized rattan flowers – and a quiet sense of calm that somehow managed to cut through the steady drum of rain on the roof. A quick wander around the grounds (umbrella clutched tightly) gave us just a glimpse of what would have been a peaceful, beautiful setting on a clearer day.
Next up was Oedolgae Rock, a dramatic 65-foot sea stack known as the “lone rock pillar.” We’re told it stands boldly against the ocean with nearby islands completing the scene. I say “we’re told” because, thanks to the weather, it was more of a moody silhouette than a postcard view. Even so, you could tell it was impressive – nature doesn’t need perfect weather to make a statement.
The rain eventually won out. It was coming down so hard that we collectively waved the white flag and skipped the planned stroll along Lee Joong-seop Street and its galleries. Sometimes you just have to admit defeat and move on.
Thankfully, our final stop – Seogwipo Maeil Olle Market – came with a roof. A glorious, wonderful roof. Jeju’s largest traditional market was bustling, colorful, and mercifully dry.
The majority of the market concentrated on fish stalls. Lots of fish stalls. The center aisle though, was dedicated to take-away of all variety.
Alan and I took full advantage of that and grabbed a light lunch right in the middle of the market. We decided to be adventurous and tried a couple of dumplings that were new to us – black pork and abalone. There we sat, doing our absolute best with chopsticks and probably looking like amateurs, but enjoying every bite.
And then… dessert.
We discovered something called an “aweffle,” which is exactly as over-the-top as it sounds – a waffle piled high with Oreos, whipped cream, and chocolate syrup. It was ridiculous. It was excessive. It was absolutely delicious. OMG is really the only appropriate response.
After warming up (a little) and picking up a few souvenirs, we made our way back to the ship, still dodging the relentless rain.
And just to put a final stamp on the day: Alan’s hiking shoes were so thoroughly soaked they didn’t dry for days. Not hours. Days.
That, my friends, is what you call a rain day.